Sourcing Polyester with Integrity
A Guide to Sustainable Synthetics
Polyester, in its virgin form, is a cornerstone of the global textile industry, prized for its performance, versatility, and cost-effectiveness. However, its origin as a fossil fuel-based plastic and its widespread environmental impact—from microplastic shedding to non-biodegradable waste—demand a responsible and strategic approach. For brands, navigating the nuances between virgin and recycled polyester—and exploring emerging biobased and circular solutions—is critical to building a transparent and future-proof supply chain.
The Lifecycle of Conventional Polyester and the Problem with rPET
Virgin polyester is made from petroleum, a non-renewable resource, inherently linking its production to the fossil fuel industry. This process is energy-intensive and contributes significantly to global greenhouse gas emissions.
Recycled polyester (rPET) was initially heralded as a more sustainable option, diverting plastic waste from landfills and reducing production-related emissions. However, most rPET today comes from clear PET bottles, not textiles—creating an “open-loop” system that diverts materials from the beverage industry rather than addressing textile waste. Once spun into fiber, rPET is difficult to recycle again, leading to downcycling rather than true circularity.
Additionally, both virgin and recycled polyester shed microplastics at similar rates, contributing to pollution in waterways and oceans. For true progress, brands must look beyond bottle-based rPET and prioritize textile-to-textile recycling solutions that enable genuine material recovery.
The Path to a Truly Circular Synthetic
Key Innovators and Technologies
A responsible polyester strategy must embrace innovation, traceability, and clear end-of-life pathways. The future of sustainable synthetics lies in closed-loop textile systems and next-generation material science that decouples polyester from fossil fuels.
Textile-to-Textile Recycling
The ultimate goal is circularity—where used garments become new garments.
Ravel (Seattle, WA) transforms blended textile waste into mono-material polyester feedstock through a low-energy process that separates dyes and contaminants.
Ambercycle (Los Angeles, USA) uses molecular recycling to break polyester down to its molecular components and repolymerize it into new, virgin-quality fiber (Cycora®).
Circ and Tex2Tex™ are advancing chemical and mechanical recycling of mixed textile waste, producing fibers that can be endlessly regenerated.
Weturn (Paris, France) converts pre- and post-consumer textile waste into recycled yarns and fabrics through a fully traceable European supply chain.
These innovators represent the next step beyond rPET bottles—closing the loop on polyester textiles themselves.
Chemical Recycling and CO₂-to-Polyester Technologies
Chemical recycling offers a true circular pathway by returning polyester to its molecular building blocks.
DePoly (Switzerland) uses a clean chemical depolymerization process to recycle both PET bottles and polyester textiles, creating virgin-quality inputs.
Fairbrics (France) captures industrial CO₂ emissions and converts them into carbon-negative polyester fibers, a pioneering approach that turns waste into resource.
LanzaTech and Pond are also advancing CO₂-based and biobased polyester systems, using captured carbon and plant feedstocks to move beyond fossil dependency.
Biobased Polyesters: The Importance of Feedstock and Biodegradability
Biobased polyester is an exciting development—but not all biobased inputs result in biodegradable or circular materials.
Plant-based feedstocks like corn, maize, or cassava (used by innovators such as MUEHLMEIER and Beno Bio) can reduce reliance on petroleum, but these materials often retain the same persistence as fossil-based PET unless specifically engineered for biodegradation.
OceanSafe’s naNea® represents a biobased and biodegradable co-polyester—engineered for both recyclability and biodegradability.
Pond® bioresins use agricultural byproducts to create biodegradable resins that can fit existing textile production systems.
When sourcing biobased polyester, brands should look beyond the “bio” label and assess end-of-life outcomes: Is it biodegradable, recyclable, or ideally both?
Ocean Plastic Recycling
Another visible and impactful innovation is the transformation of ocean and waterway plastic waste into new textiles.
Bionic Yarn and REPREVE® are leading examples, converting recovered plastics into high-performance fibers. However, while these programs mitigate pollution, brands must ensure such materials are traceable, certified, and not perpetuating open-loop systems.
Additives to Enhance Biodegradation
Emerging technologies like CiCLO® introduce chemical additives that create “biodegradable spots” in polyester fibers, attracting microbes under certain conditions. These solutions aim to reduce long-term microplastic persistence, but their long-term impacts and biodegradation claims remain under scientific review. Brands should treat these as transitional tools, not long-term solutions.
Designing for Monomateriality
Circular design starts at the fiber stage. Creating 100% polyester garments—including sewing threads, trims, and coatings—simplifies the chemical recycling process and supports textile-to-textile regeneration.
End of Life and Circularity
The most responsible approach is to extend the garment’s lifespan through durability, repairability, and timeless design. When polyester must be used, prioritize recycled (textile-derived) or biobased biodegradable options with traceable certifications.
By supporting innovators in circular and biobased synthetics, brands can harness the functional benefits of polyester while building a truly responsible and future-forward material strategy.